Francisco Costa, the designer for the women’s Calvin Klein Collection, was inspired by the work of Mike Kelley while composing his latest collection. Kelley became known for his work with teddy bears, and this influence reflected itself in pieces made with mohair, cashmere, and pastel colors.
Because of his minimalist approach, even looks with several layers had a touch of simplicity. “I played with the proportions,” Costa explained to Marie Claire. The philosophy can be seen, for example, in midi length skirts and trousers, overlapping with long sweaters.
“I thought of clothes for a woman who wants to dress with style, but be comfortable at the same time.” This is a continuation of the last spring-summer collection, which was inspired by sportswear. Despite the heavy appearance of the coats, Costa claims they’re all very light. “One of the interesting things is that 80% of the collection was made with knitting,” he said. The collection has an urban touch, especially the boots, which were clearly influenced by the classic Dr. Martens Military style.Among the famous guests sitting in the front row was Oscar-nominated actress Lupita Nyong’o. This year, she received Best Supporting Actress at the Critics’ Choice Awards for the film “12 Years a Slave”, where she wore a dress from Costa’s collection.”We were delighted to see that fabulous dress on Lupita, an urban, intelligent and talented woman,” said Costa.
A resident of New York since the 90s, these days the designer lives in Murray Hill, a neighborhood in Midtown Manhattan. Asked about his favorite place in the city, he responded promptly: “my house”.